Finding a reliable spare tire mount for flatbed rigs is usually one of those things you don't think about until you're stuck on the side of the road with a load of lumber and a blown tire. We've all been there—trying to dig a massive, heavy wheel out from under a pile of gear or realizing that the "temporary" spot we threw the spare in is now blocked by two tons of equipment. It's a total pain.
If you're running a flatbed, you know that space is your most valuable currency. Every square inch of that deck should be working for you, not acting as a storage closet for a 100-pound tire. That's why getting a dedicated mount isn't just a "nice-to-have" upgrade; it's pretty much essential for anyone who actually uses their truck for work or serious hauling.
Why You Actually Need a Dedicated Mount
Let's be honest for a second. A lot of guys just toss the spare in the bed, throw a ratchet strap over it, and call it a day. While that works for a quick trip across town, it's a terrible long-term strategy. For one, tires are heavy. If that strap looses its tension or snaps, you've got a massive projectile bouncing around.
Second, tires are dirty. They've got road grime, grease, and all sorts of junk on them. If you're hauling something clean or fragile, you don't want a dirty tire rubbing against it for three hundred miles.
By installing a proper spare tire mount for flatbed use, you're basically reclaiming your deck. You're giving that tire a permanent home where it's out of the way but still easy to grab when the universe decides to give you a flat at 2:00 AM in the rain. Plus, it just looks better. A clean, organized flatbed says you actually give a damn about your gear.
Picking the Right Spot for Your Spare
There's no one-size-fits-all answer for where that tire should go. It really depends on what you haul and how your truck is set up. You've got a few main options, and each has its own set of pros and cons.
Under-the-Bed Mounting
This is probably the most popular choice for people who want to keep their deck completely clear. You tuck the tire up underneath the flatbed frame.
The Good: It stays out of sight and leaves 100% of your deck space open for cargo. It also keeps the center of gravity low, which is always a plus. The Bad: It can be a real nightmare to get to if you're stuck in the mud or if your truck is sitting low because of a heavy load. You're going to be crawling around on your hands and knees, which is never fun. You also have to make sure you have enough clearance so you aren't dragging the tire over speed bumps or off-road obstacles.
Bulkhead or Headboard Mounting
If you have a headache rack or a bulkhead at the front of your flatbed, this is a prime spot. You can mount the tire vertically right against the back of the cab.
The Good: The tire is super easy to reach. You just unbolt it and go. It's also protected from most road debris and salt that gets kicked up by the tires. The Bad: It takes up a bit of your deck length. If you're hauling long materials like pipes or 12-foot boards, that extra foot of space the tire occupies might be a dealbreaker. It can also block your view out the back window depending on how high it sits.
Side-Rail Mounting
Some folks prefer to hang the tire off the side of the bed, usually just behind the rear wheel or tucked into a side box.
The Good: Very accessible. You don't have to climb onto the bed or crawl under the truck. The Bad: It makes your truck wider. You have to be careful about your overall width limits and make sure you aren't going to clip a mailbox or a gate post. It also leaves the tire exposed to the elements and potential thieves if it's not locked down tight.
Material Choices: Steel vs. Aluminum
When you start shopping for a spare tire mount for flatbed trucks, you'll notice they usually come in either steel or aluminum.
Steel mounts are the old-school standard. They're incredibly strong, relatively cheap, and if you know how to weld, they're easy to modify. The downside is the weight and the rust. If you live in the rust belt where they salt the roads like they're seasoning a steak, a steel mount is going to need a good powder coat or regular paint touch-ups to keep from turning into a pile of orange flakes.
Aluminum mounts are the "set it and forget it" option. They're much lighter, which is great if you're trying to keep your payload capacity as high as possible. They won't rust, so they'll look good for years with zero maintenance. They are usually a bit more expensive, but for many people, the lack of headache is worth the extra cash.
Bolt-On vs. Weld-On Options
This usually comes down to how permanent you want the setup to be and what tools you have in your garage.
Bolt-on mounts are perfect for most people. They usually come with a backplate and some heavy-duty hardware. You drill a few holes, tighten things down, and you're done. The nice thing about bolt-on kits is that if you decide to change your bed layout later, you can just move the mount.
Weld-on mounts are for the "forever" crowd. If you know exactly where you want that tire and you want the strongest connection possible, welding it to the frame or the headache rack is the way to go. Just remember that once it's on there, it's on there. Changing your mind later involves a grinder and a lot of swearing.
Making Sure It Stays Secure
Let's talk about security for a minute. A good truck tire and rim can cost a few hundred bucks—sometimes more if you've got fancy aftermarket wheels. That makes them a prime target for people with sticky fingers.
When you install your mount, don't just rely on a single lug nut. Most high-quality mounts have a spot for a padlock or use a specialized locking nut. Even a heavy-duty cable lock threaded through the rim and the truck frame can be enough of a deterrent to make a thief move on to an easier target. It's a small investment that can save you a lot of money and frustration down the line.
A Few Installation Tips to Keep in Mind
If you're going to DIY the installation, there are a couple of things I've learned the hard way.
First, check your clearances twice. If you're mounting it under the bed, make sure the suspension has room to travel. You don't want the axle slamming into your spare tire every time you hit a pothole. If it's on the side, check your mirrors to make sure you can still see what you need to see.
Second, use Grade 8 hardware. Don't grab the cheap bolts from the bargain bin at the hardware store. You're holding a heavy, vibrating mass of rubber and metal to a moving vehicle. You want the strongest bolts you can get.
Third, think about the height. If you're mounting it high up on a bulkhead, remember that you're the one who has to lift it up there. If you've got a bad back or you're not exactly a heavyweight lifter, a lower mount might be a smarter choice. Wrestling a 35-inch mud tire onto a chest-high mount while standing on a slippery flatbed is a recipe for a trip to the chiropractor.
Lastly, check the tension regularly. Bolts vibrate loose over time. Every time you change your oil or do a walk-around of your rig, give the spare tire a good shake. If it wiggles, tighten it up. A rattling tire isn't just annoying; it's wearing down the mount and could eventually fail.
Wrapping It Up
At the end of the day, a spare tire mount for flatbed trucks is one of those boring purchases that pays for itself a dozen times over. It clears up your workspace, keeps you legal, and ensures that when things go sideways on the road, you aren't making a bad situation worse by digging through a pile of cargo.
Whether you go for a simple bolt-on side mount or a custom-welded bulkhead setup, just make sure it's solid. Your future self—the one standing on the shoulder of the highway at midnight—will definitely thank you for taking the time to do it right. Safe hauling!